Putting It Together
Once you have all the components for your aquarium, follow these steps to set it up for your new pearlscales. It is important that you do NOT buy fish or live plants ahead of time if possible. Rushing this process will greatly increase the chances of a problem with your water and your fish, for example ammonia spikes. Skip the optional steps which do not apply.
1.
Clean the aquarium with aquarium salt and warm water. Do not use any cleaning products such as soap. The residue it leaves behind will pollute your water can make your fish sick, or even kill them. Be sure to rinse thorougly to remove any residue.
2.
Add the undergravel filter, if you are using one. Make sure all ports that do not have a tube in them are covered, so gravel does not enter the filter. Carbon filters at this time are not necessary, but they will be useful later to clear out fine matter in the water, making it much more clear. Connect and set up power heads and/or external pumps, but do not turn them on yet.
3.
Add the substrate. It should be rinsed thoroughly before being placed into the tank. If you are using a fine substrate (like sand), you may want to soak it for a few days before putting it into the tank. It will save you a lot of time getting air bubbles out of it later on. You do not need to use any substrate other than gravel if you are using an undergravel filter.
4.
Add the thermometer (and any other gauges) if you have not already done so.
5.
Add the water. It should be between 18 degrees Celsius to 22 degrees Celsius. Cold tap water usually fits within this range. If the water feels warm to the touch, it is probably too hot; it should feel cool but not freezing cold. Make sure your thermometer reads the desired temperature range before set up is complete.
6.
Add water conditioner to remove chlorine and heavy metals. It should work instantly. Follow the directions on the box. When in doubt, use more rather than less.
7.
Set up and start the filters, power heads and/or pumps. The powerheads need to be submerged to work. Do not start filters dry, as this will burn out the motor.
8.
Add a heater if necessary. Do not turn on a submersible heater unless it is completely submerged. Outside of water, the heater will heat up very very quickly. Submerging it at that point will cause enough stress to crack the glass on it. Read the directions for your heater carefully. When in doubt, unplug the heater, wait at least ten minutes, and adjust or remove it as necessary.
9.
Let your aquarium run for 24 hours. Set up your aquarium at least one day before purchasing fish or plants. This will filter out any debris in the water and allow the temperature to stabalize.
10.
Add live plants (and aquarium fertiliser) if you want. Now is a good time for you to arrange any ornaments the way you want them. Live plants (like fish) carry the same benign bacteria that makes up your biological filter. Adding live plants will jumpstart the filtration process. Live plants can tolerate imperfect water conditions and temperatures much better than fish.
11.
Add fish. Ideally, you should start with only one fish. Until the aquarium is cycled, it is vulnerable to chemical spikes that may kill the fish. You can reduce the risk of spikes by doing water changes every day or every other day for the next couple of weeks.
12.
Add aquarium salt if desired. Add in 1/4 incriments (typically 1 or 1.5 teaspoons) every other day. Do not use iodized table salt, only Aquarium salt. The salt should be fully dissolved in water before being added to the tank. Adding undissolved salt to the tank may chemically burn your fish. Be aware aquarium salt may raise your pH as well, as it contains minerals such as calcium.
Cloudy water may occur within the first week. This is normal. Most tap water is slightly cloudy. Carbon filters will screen out much of this and make the water clearer.
1.
Clean the aquarium with aquarium salt and warm water. Do not use any cleaning products such as soap. The residue it leaves behind will pollute your water can make your fish sick, or even kill them. Be sure to rinse thorougly to remove any residue.
2.
Add the undergravel filter, if you are using one. Make sure all ports that do not have a tube in them are covered, so gravel does not enter the filter. Carbon filters at this time are not necessary, but they will be useful later to clear out fine matter in the water, making it much more clear. Connect and set up power heads and/or external pumps, but do not turn them on yet.
3.
Add the substrate. It should be rinsed thoroughly before being placed into the tank. If you are using a fine substrate (like sand), you may want to soak it for a few days before putting it into the tank. It will save you a lot of time getting air bubbles out of it later on. You do not need to use any substrate other than gravel if you are using an undergravel filter.
4.
Add the thermometer (and any other gauges) if you have not already done so.
5.
Add the water. It should be between 18 degrees Celsius to 22 degrees Celsius. Cold tap water usually fits within this range. If the water feels warm to the touch, it is probably too hot; it should feel cool but not freezing cold. Make sure your thermometer reads the desired temperature range before set up is complete.
6.
Add water conditioner to remove chlorine and heavy metals. It should work instantly. Follow the directions on the box. When in doubt, use more rather than less.
7.
Set up and start the filters, power heads and/or pumps. The powerheads need to be submerged to work. Do not start filters dry, as this will burn out the motor.
8.
Add a heater if necessary. Do not turn on a submersible heater unless it is completely submerged. Outside of water, the heater will heat up very very quickly. Submerging it at that point will cause enough stress to crack the glass on it. Read the directions for your heater carefully. When in doubt, unplug the heater, wait at least ten minutes, and adjust or remove it as necessary.
9.
Let your aquarium run for 24 hours. Set up your aquarium at least one day before purchasing fish or plants. This will filter out any debris in the water and allow the temperature to stabalize.
10.
Add live plants (and aquarium fertiliser) if you want. Now is a good time for you to arrange any ornaments the way you want them. Live plants (like fish) carry the same benign bacteria that makes up your biological filter. Adding live plants will jumpstart the filtration process. Live plants can tolerate imperfect water conditions and temperatures much better than fish.
11.
Add fish. Ideally, you should start with only one fish. Until the aquarium is cycled, it is vulnerable to chemical spikes that may kill the fish. You can reduce the risk of spikes by doing water changes every day or every other day for the next couple of weeks.
12.
Add aquarium salt if desired. Add in 1/4 incriments (typically 1 or 1.5 teaspoons) every other day. Do not use iodized table salt, only Aquarium salt. The salt should be fully dissolved in water before being added to the tank. Adding undissolved salt to the tank may chemically burn your fish. Be aware aquarium salt may raise your pH as well, as it contains minerals such as calcium.
Cloudy water may occur within the first week. This is normal. Most tap water is slightly cloudy. Carbon filters will screen out much of this and make the water clearer.